Sailing to Panamá via San Blas (12/16-12/20)

Saturday December 16th

We were supposed to sail away at 4 in the morning. We would have already been out of the protective waters of the bay and into open water by the time we got up. That didn’t happen though. I guess we started going and didn’t make it far before turning back. We were awoken by the rocking of our boat in the wakes of passing boats. Our auto-pilot screen was apparently not working. 

Breakfast was crappy cereal with cow milk  as the only option for topping, fruit and pre-toasted tiny slices of bimbo bread. We often make due with juice on our cereal, but there wasn’t even juice. Some of the bimbo breads were made with butter already built in, and by the time we got in line to eat there were only 3 of the non-buttered kind left. It was, needless to say, a depressing breakfast.

We sat around for most of the morning, anchored out just beyond the marina. At 10 someone in a dingy brought us a new screen and then we were underway. We had an hour or two of sailing in the protected waters of the bay before getting into the open ocean. We spent all day on deck staring at the ocean, terrified if we moved we’d be sick. The waves seemed big to us, but were apparently normal for this time of year. We had lunch up top. Boiled potatoes and carrots with a few pasta noodles. We were served first, a tiny amount, then tuna was added to the rest of the pot. While everyone else enjoyed seconds, there were none for us. I think the cook lady probably hates us. The capitan seems to get it and feels bad for us, so he gave us each an apple. She shot herself in the foot mixing in the tuna like that, because there is a guy on board who is allergic to fish. I guess they forgot and had to scramble to make him a meal at the last moment.

We stayed outside until it got dark. We got to see a beautiful sunset. No photos were taken though, the boat was rocking like crazy, and I didn’t want my phone going overboard. I also didn’t want to go inside long enough to get it! Jeff had to go inside multiple times today for pooping, he wasn’t having diarrhea, just a lot of poop for some reason. Unfortunately being in the bathroom is very nauseating in rough seas, so he began throwing up early in the day. 

Dinner was a small scoop of teriyaki veggies sandwiched between two slices of bimbo bread. Jeff took one whiff of it and threw up over the back. I ate both sandwiches and immediately felt gross. I stayed near the back and just kept staring at the water through the darkness. Eventually I ventured below deck in an attempt to take my contacts out. I got thrown all over the place. It ended with me running to the back of the boat and throwing up. Instant relief!

We went to bed around 8, anxiously awaiting for the relief that would come the following afternoon. 

Sunday December 17th

We both felt too ill for breakfast today. We sat on deck all morning. It’s hard to get rid of the sick feeling once you get it. Around 1 we caught sight of the first island and by two were had arrived to calm water, after about 28 hours at sea!

As soon as the boat stopped moving, we ate the bananas and arepas that we had brought along. We anchored off one of the many islands tiny palm covered islands, there are over 300 of them! The islands are know as the Archipelago of San Blas, 49 of the islands are inhabited by the native Kuna indians. The islands are within sight of the mainland and stretch from near the city of Colón all the way to the Colombian border. They are technically part of Panama, but are completely separate in terms of government.

After everyone had taken a swim, we all sat down for a late lunch. We had steamed zucchini, salad and rice. The meat eaters got meat instead of zucchini. We were then taught to wash our dishes off the back of the boat with the salt water and poison soap. That can’t be good for the ocean!

We had been told by the booking agency to expect not to shower for the duration of the trip, but I think our boat is special. It’s designed to be a charter boat and thus has more adundant outdoor space and features than the average sail boat. Our capitan described to us how we could jump in the water, get back onboard, soap up, then use a fresh water sprayer to rinse off. Lots of our fellow passengers were more than thrilled to shower and rinse their poisons into the ocean.

After lunch we had the opportunity to go snorkeling. The capitan took us in the dingy a little ways away to where waves were breaking on the reef. Not everyone could go cause there wasn’t enough equipment. In the end it was just me and two others, Jeff didn’t feel comfortable and got out, another guy got out right away when we discovered there were jelly fish. We spent an hour snorkeling and swimming back to the boat. We saw some starfish, a lobster and lots of other colorful fish of all sizes.

I was real hungry by dinner time. We had pasta with yellow squash that was cooked with tomatoes and onion. Ketchup was put out on the table to be used as sauce I guess? Once again meat was mixed into the remaining pasta, and while everyone else was eating seconds, there was nothing for us!

Monday December 18th

Breakfast was the same depressing sight. If you don’t line up quick, the fruit runs out. I dug into my storage bag and got out soy milk powder so we could have cereal, but it was icky sugar cereal and we felt icky afterward. Some kuna came along in a canoe yesterday evening and sold a big bag of bakery bread to the captain, so we had that this morning instead of more bimbo, thankfully!

After breakfast we got a ride on the dingy to the island and walked around it with two other people from our boat, Brian from USA and Evo from Switzerland. Brian brought along a fancy camera and took lots of photos. The island was beautiful. We walked all the way around it through the water and along what little beach there was. Sadly tons of ocean plastic washes up on the islands, so there was tons of litter, especially single flips flops and lots of plastic bottles.

For lunch we had our first filling meal of the trip! A delicious roasted eggplant, cous cous and bread. The meat eaters had meat instead of eggplant, and were jealous of our plates!

After a little more swimming, we set sail for a new island. We sailed for about an hour before anchoring offshore from two islands, one of which has a little resort on it. I think we chose this island because lobster is on the menu tonight and they needed more space  to cook them. Most of our group played a soccer game, Jeff included. I lounged in a hammock. I don’t like team sports!

After dark we all got back on the boat for dinner. Some swam from the island (me) and some rode in the dingy (Jeff). While everyone else had their lobsters, Jeff and I had cauliflower. We also had cabbage salad, baby potatoes and bread. Even though I think the cooker lady hates us, she is good at cooking vegetables! Everything has been very tasty. There is one other vegetarian on board, but she eats fish. I hate when people say they are vegetarian but eat fish, that’s not vegetarian and just confuses the public into thinking that all vegetarians are fish eaters!

For our after dinner entertainment, Kirby and Matt sing and play guitar. They are the two Americans that were at our hostel in Cartagena, the Peace Corps Volunteers. I don’t usually like when people break out in song or play the guitar, but they were talented, and even I could appreciate it! They did remakes of pop and country music.

I finally took a few photos today! 

Tuesday December 19th

Breakfast was the same again. She always makes a big veggie filled omelette for everyone else, but we don’t eat it. We can’t wait to get to make our own breakfast again!

It was windy overnight and the boat rocked a lot. It was still windy in the morning, so we moved to a new island after breakfast.

For lunch we had lentils, zucchini and half of a ripe plantain. Like every other meal, it was barely enough. We were encouraged to bring along snacks, but we don’t snack in regular life, so we didn’t bring any. We generally eat much larger meals when we do eat. It’s ok though, we certainly aren’t going to perish!

Our third and final island was the biggest one yet. Lots of other sailboats were docked nearby. We spent the afternoon swimming and walking around the island. This island has the prettiest beaches so far and some shipwrecks on the reef just off the island. It is an inhabited island with at least 3 different families living on it, and there is a “resort” for tourists. They also pick up the trash since there are actually people there to do so, unlike our first island. According to a sign we read, the trash that washes up gets hauled off once a year. We also learned the islands are predicted to be gone in 20 years thanks to rising sea levels.

Wednesday, December 20th

After the same breakfast as always, we were given free time for a few hours. Jeff and I chose to spend our final time in the islands snorkeling. Other people swam to the island, others took sun. Once we were all back on board we sailed to the island where customs is located. The capitan took the dingy to shore with our passports and got us all stamped into Panama. Getting stamped out of Colombia was also taken care of for us. It was nice not having to be involved in the border crossing at all.

Our final lunch on board was potatoes, lentils and stewed tomatoes. Our group then separated into two groups and boarded small speed boats headed to the mainland. It was a 30 minute ride in the wind over choppy seas. I was unlucky to choose the only seat in the boat that water sprayed into, so I arrived soaked. We traveled a short way up a river to a big clearing in the jungle where 4WD SUVs were waiting for us. The captain told us the ride would be like a roller coaster. We had to go over the coastal mountains to get to Panama City. Our group of 14 split up into three different cars based on which part of the city we were going to. The ride was indeed roller coaster like, the most roller coaster like I’ve ever experienced. There were steep ups and downs and sharp curves and the road was narrow. It was at least paved, but looked more suited to be a bike path than a highway! Our driver also accentuated the roller coaster feel. He seemed to be in a race, passing other SUVs, whipping around curves and charging down the hills. It was somewhat entertaining and we didn’t get motion sick! 

We arrived to our hostel in the old sector of Panama City after dark. We are in a real touristy area called Casco Viejo and it’s full of hip expensive restaurants. We were tired and hungry and I gave up being picky after the third restaurant we checked. For $20 we got a big fancy plate filled with a a very small portion of fancily displayed roasted veggies. We also got a Greek style quinoa salad and shared both. Panama prices will be hard to get used to.

After eating we began both immediately feeling ill from being still after a week of motion. Our time at sea was truly miserable. We have no desire to go out on the open ocean for an extended time again any time soon, or maybe ever. We are glad to have experienced the sailboat ride though. It is certainly an interesting way to cross the border. Another option that we may consider if the opportunity to travel to Colombia arises again, is a speed boat that island hops it’s way to Colombia. You sleep on the islands and only spend 8 hours boating. You end up just across the border in Colombia and bus the rest of the way to Cartagena. The islands are really beautiful, much more so than they appear in any of my photos. Unfortunately I never took my phone ashore for any photos from the islands.

I was in San Blas in 2004 when I was an exchange student. It was neat to get to go back and see it. I haven’t been in Panama City (or any of Panama) since 2011 when I rode my bike through. I am excited to get to see it again. My interests have changed quite a bit since then, so it will be like seeing in a whole new light. I am of course most curious about the food!